Self-rescue

First slice only: get off a loaded belay, pass a knot, get back up a rope after a fall, and decide to call. Glacier and crevasse systems are not on this page. This is not a rescue course. Take one in person before you need any of this for real.

When to stop and call

Someone is unconscious, bleeding you cannot control, or you cannot move them without making it worse.
You have already used the rope and rack you understand and the next step is invention.
Weather or darkness will close the simple options.

Leave a route and a time before you start. Carry a way to call. Solo unconsciousness is not a self-rescue problem.

Escape the belay

Goal: get your body out of a loaded partner belay so you can go to the climber or build a raise, without dumping them.

Lock the belay device (or keep a brake-hand knot if that is your trained lock).
Tie a backup on the brake strand and clip it to the anchor so the device is no longer the only catch.
Transfer the load from your harness to the anchor with a mule / Munter-mule or a redirected friction hitch — the method you practiced on the ground.
Confirm the climber is on the anchor, not on you. Then you may get out of the system.
If you cannot transfer the load, you are still the belayer. Do not unclip yourself to “go help.”

Pass a knot on rappel

Stop above the knot with the rappel backup still on. Do not rappel onto the knot as your only plan unless that was the stop you built.
Clip yourself to the rope or anchor above the knot so you are not only on the device.
Rig a second rappel or a friction hitch below the knot, or move the device below it, using the method you have rehearsed.
Weight the new system. Then clear the old device and the knot.
One system holds you until the next one is weighted. Same rule as a lead-solo transition.

Ascend after a fall

Get a hand on the brake strand. Tie a backup if the device can slip.
Two ways up: two friction hitches, or one hitch plus a device, or jumars if you carried them.
Do not unclip the only catch to “reset.” Build the ascend system beside it, then transfer.
If you cannot go up and cannot lower, you are in the call-for-help box.

Lead-solo and wall jugging assume you already packed this. See lead solo and rappelling.

When this page is the wrong tool

Crevasse haul-out, glacier travel, or a mid-face raise of an injured partner — get a rescue course.
You have never practiced these steps on the ground with a backup belay.